Weber barbecue: Regulator prevents full temperature unless you play with main value

Post by Sum Guy
The one thing I hate about my 1-year-old Weber grill is that you have to
open the main propane valve very carefully or the regulator will kick
into some sort of safety or limiter mode and the grill temperature will
never get higher than 325f.
Is this a known problem with these grills?
It there a solution - from Weber?
http://www.stainless-steel-grills.com/img/products/1237823109_WeberGenesisEP-310GasGrill-PropaneLP_3742301XA.jpg

Please go to the Weber web site, locate the online (PDF format) user's
manual, and give us the link so we can read the appropriate section. Then we
can answer your question.

You used the words "some sort of safety....", which suggests something to
me. That's why I want to see the instructions.

:-)

Sum Guy

2010-08-11 00:43:18 UTC

Post by JoeSpareBedroom

you have to open the main propane valve very carefully or the
regulator will kick into some sort of safety or limiter mode
and the grill temperature will never get higher than 325f.

Please go to the Weber web site, locate the online (PDF format)
user's manual, and give us the link so we can read the
appropriate section. Then we can answer your question.

http://weber.com/help/manuals/pdf_files/2009_grills/Genesis_310_320_NG_OwnersGuide_89479_082208.pdf

I suspect the problem is in the regulator (the diaphram-shaped thing
that's part of the connection fitting that screws into the propane
tank).

There is no useful reference to the regulator in the manual, except in
the safety warning on page 2.

Here's a picture of what I'm talking about:

Loading Image...

Ed Pawlowski

2010-08-11 01:55:14 UTC

Is the tank full or nearly so? This is a common problem with the OPD tanks.
If you open the valve too fast, the surge will cause the float inside to
restrict the opening. It is not a Weber problem, but a tank design
"feature" intended to be a safety device. In most cases, once you've used
about 1/4 of the tank the problem goes away.

Sum Guy

2010-08-11 02:09:24 UTC

Post by Ed Pawlowski
Is the tank full or nearly so? This is a common problem with the
OPD tanks. If you open the valve too fast, the surge will cause
the float inside to restrict the opening. It is not a Weber
problem, but a tank design "feature" intended to be a safety
device. In most cases, once you've used about 1/4 of the tank
the problem goes away.

This didn't happen on the first tank that I used on this grill, but it
is happening on the next two tanks (I'm on the third tank). And it
doesn't seem to matter if the tank is full, 3/4 full or almost empty.

I got the 2'nd and 3'rd tank from the same place - not the same place as
the first tank.

2010-08-11 03:35:35 UTC

Does hitting it make the float go back to where it was?

Post by Ed Pawlowski
problem, but a tank design "feature" intended to be a safety
device. In most cases, once you've used about 1/4 of the tank
the problem goes away.

This didn't happen on the first tank that I used on this grill, but it
is happening on the next two tanks (I'm on the third tank). And it
doesn't seem to matter if the tank is full, 3/4 full or almost empty.
I got the 2'nd and 3'rd tank from the same place - not the same place as
the first tank.

Maybe you need to buy from the guy who sells defective tanks.

Safety is the curse of modernity. Like those stupid things that make
the lawnmower turn off when you let go of it. What do they think I've
driving, a locomotive. I alwasys wire the things so the mower stays
on.

Smitty Two

2010-08-11 03:48:07 UTC

This didn't happen on the first tank that I used on this grill, but it
is happening on the next two tanks (I'm on the third tank). And it
doesn't seem to matter if the tank is full, 3/4 full or almost empty.
I got the 2'nd and 3'rd tank from the same place - not the same place as
the first tank.

What "tanks" you be talking about? The manual you linked to was for a
natural gas grill.

Sum Guy

2010-08-11 12:38:43 UTC

Post by Smitty Two
What "tanks" you be talking about? The manual you linked to was for
a natural gas grill.

My mistake. Here is the correct manual:

http://weber.com/help/manuals/pdf_files/2009_grills/Genesis_310_320_LP_OwnersGuide_89478_092409.pdf

There are many more references to a "regulator", but the most useful
appear in the troubleshooting section on page 17:

---------------
Symptoms:
Burners do not light. -or- Burners have a small flickering flame in the
HI position. -or- Barbecue temperature only reaches 250 to 300 in the HI
position.

Check:
The excess flow safety device, which is part of the barbecue to cylinder
connection, may have activated.

Cure:
To reset the excess flow safety device turn all burner control knobs and
the cylinder valve off. Disconnect the regulator from the cylinder. Turn
burner control knobs to HI. Wait at least 1 minute. Turn burner
control knobs to OFF. Reconnect the regulator to the cylinder. Turn
cylinder valve on slowly. Refer to Lighting Instructions.
---------------

This is a pain in the ass when it becomes the default or standard way
that the grill has to be operated all the time.

Does anyone else have this problem with their Weber grill?

See also:

http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r20355671-Propane-Grill-Problems

---------------
Since 1995 all regulators (the part that attaches to the gas tank to
regulate the flow of gas) have included a safety device that restricts
the flow of gas in the event of a gas leak. This safety device can be
inadvertently activated in two ways, putting the grill into what is
commonly called bypass. The first way for the device to be activated
is to leave one or more burner control knobs in the ON position when
the LP cylinder valve is opened. The second is not to wait long enough
to start the grill after opening the LP cylinder valve. The safety
device in the regulator is activated each time that the LP cylinder
valve is opened. The device resets itself when the gas pressure
equalizes between the closed burner control valve and the regulator,
through the hose. If a burner control knob is turned on before the gas
pressure can equalize, the device will remain in bypass. The length of
time necessary to wait to start the grill after turning on the LP
cylinder valve is dependent on the length of the hose and outside air
temperature. It is always good practice to wait a few seconds after
opening the LP cylinder valve before turning on the burner control knob
to start the grill.
---------------

Also

--------------
My weber grill did this about a year after buying it. Contacted them via
email support, explained I tried all their troubleshooting, and they
sent out a new regulator, hose and manifold which did the trick.
--------------

So it looks like I'm going to contact Weber and get a new regulator.
The best I've seen it do is to get to 450f in 15 minutes - not 500f in 2
minutes.

JoeSpareBedroom

2010-08-11 12:53:24 UTC

Post by Smitty Two
What "tanks" you be talking about? The manual you linked to was for
a natural gas grill.

http://weber.com/help/manuals/pdf_files/2009_grills/Genesis_310_320_LP_OwnersGuide_89478_092409.pdf
There are many more references to a "regulator", but the most useful

Let us know what you find out when you call Weber. They're very helpful on
the phone.

P***@comcast.net

2010-08-11 11:18:24 UTC

Howdy. My CharBroil comes with the same warning. I guess you just
have to be careful. What do you have to do to reset yours? Mine
calls for disconnecting the gas tank and doing it again. This is a
feature of the regulator and I assume all modern regulators.

Jeff The Drunk

2010-08-11 11:46:12 UTC

I suspect a faulty regulator.

Tony

2010-08-11 14:19:38 UTC

Common problem with the newer safety tanks. It thinks there is a gas
leak. Try turning the gas valves on slowly.

Probably the same guy designed that as the stupid vent free gasoline
cans. I've spilled more gasoline in a couple years than I ever spilled
with the old style.

2010-08-12 06:14:35 UTC

Post by Tony
Probably the same guy designed that as the stupid vent free gasoline
cans. I've spilled more gasoline in a couple years than I ever spilled
with the old style.

Why don't they have vents anymore?

Rod Speed

2010-08-12 18:37:44 UTC

Post by Tony
Probably the same guy designed that as the stupid vent free gasoline
cans. I've spilled more gasoline in a couple years than I ever
spilled with the old style.

Why don't they have vents anymore?

Because that supposedly fucks the environment.

2010-08-13 20:42:45 UTC

On Fri, 13 Aug 2010 04:37:44 +1000, "Rod Speed"

Post by Rod Speed

Post by Tony
Probably the same guy designed that as the stupid vent free gasoline
cans. I've spilled more gasoline in a couple years than I ever
spilled with the old style.

Why don't they have vents anymore?

Because that supposedly fucks the environment.

But the vents had caps, so you wouldn't lose gas when the gas can was
just sitting.

Roy

2010-08-13 21:57:05 UTC

Post by mm
On Fri, 13 Aug 2010 04:37:44 +1000, "Rod Speed"

Post by Rod Speed

Post by Tony
Probably the same guy designed that as the stupid vent free gasoline
cans. I've spilled more gasoline in a couple years than I ever
spilled with the old style.

Why don't they have vents anymore?

Because that supposedly fucks the environment.

But the vents had caps, so you wouldn't lose gas when the gas can was
just sitting.

==
But they don't care...THEY know what is right. Who cares if you can't
pour gas from it?...as long as there is no vent. Bloody idiots.
==

Rod Speed

2010-08-14 19:42:38 UTC

Post by Rod Speed

Post by Tony
Probably the same guy designed that as the stupid vent free
gasoline cans. I've spilled more gasoline in a couple years than
I ever spilled with the old style.

Why don't they have vents anymore?

Because that supposedly fucks the environment.

But the vents had caps, so you wouldn't lose gas when the gas can was just sitting.

Trouble was that the user couldnt be relied on to keep using the caps.

I'm not saying it made any sense, just saying thats how it came about.

Tony

2010-08-13 04:00:53 UTC